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I've taken my JD4700's rear R4's down to 5 psi for a different reason -- Because the treads wouldn't completely set down on the ground, the tractor tended to slide on slopes while mowing with a rear mower, breaking loose rearend first. So, I tried low pressure to get more tread edge bite. However, I got negligible improvement (the sidewalls are too stiff), so went back to spec pressure. The only serious answer is to switch to radial R4's, which sit down on the entire tread nice. Only issue is $$$; Goodyear has some nice tread designs. too bad JD doesn't offer radials as optional.
jim

R4 s On Turf - low or hi pressure
John Deere Tractors
Replies 21 Post by Jim on Timberridge

grasgod:<br>
I am intriqued by your mention of the TR3Rake. I went to their website, and the image is of an implement with several scarifiers like what's found on box blades, plus a row of hard teeth like what's found on a drag/harrow. And it has drop-down wheels for transporting.<br>
So, tell me about how it works.<br>
I have 6-8 acre field that I recovered from an old runoff terrain with gulleys and washouts. It needs patching in the spring and fall to fill in spots that settle or erode. I move in dirt from the adjacent hillsides, then try to smooth and prep for grass planting. But nothing works the way I want it to.<br>
Tried a pulverizer, moldboard plow, 2 row cultivator, rigid drags, landscape rake, and flex harrow. All with mixed results. Biggest problem is that the soil is heavy clay or loam, and tends to compact if it's driven over into impermeable/dense hardpack that won't allow seed to take.<br>
I recently stumbled on a "rotary harrow" that looks to have potential, and have been thinking of trading in my rake. <br>
Cost is $600-800. 6ft diameter. Have you any experience with this type of implement ???<br>
What does the TR3 Rake cost? Does it come in different widths?<br>
thanks<br>
jim

Box Scraper and Rake for new Lawn
Garden and Landscape
Replies 21 Post by Jim on Timberridge

A salesman at the local dealer told me JD has already demo'ed new versions of the 4000 CUT's for reps from dealerships. He said:<br>
- The top end is 4720 (?) and will be 53 hp<br>
- FEL's are all new<br>
- Lots of new standard features<br>
Wouldn't say when the public gets a taste. Anyone heard any more?<br>
jim

Deere s new 4x20 series
John Deere Tractors
Replies 8 Post by Jim on Timberridge

JD sells a HyGard and a Low Viscosity HyGard. The 4x00's and 4x10's use the LV HG in both the Hyd-Trans and the FWD axle. I'd want to know which was being considered -- the LV stuff is really like water. I hate it -- it's nearly impossible to see on the dip stick especially the yellow one in the axle. (I've started using a popicle stick to check fluid level; at least you can see the wetting)
jim

Kubota Transmission Fluid SUDT
Kubota Tractors
Replies 57 Post by Jim on Timberridge

Sounds like just the kind of rotten thing a flatlander would do... check for Illini plates in the area.
jim

Hit and run JERKS
Everything and Anything
Replies 12 Post by Jim on Timberridge

I tried using untreated ties, called cull ties because they were rejected by the RR prior to treating for some flaw. They were mostly red oak, some white oak. I soaked each of 55 in a copper-based preservative solution. It may have slowed down the decay process by a few years, but now after 10 years, I had to tear up what was left of them.
A contractor used creosoted timbers from a dismantled railway bridge for a retaining wall on my driveway 15 years ago. It looks like it will last for 50 years.
jim

railroad ties
Garden and Landscape
Replies 12 Post by Jim on Timberridge

Billy: thanks for the response. Happy spring; now we only have 2 more months before Wisc is dried out and warm enough to get to work.
jim

anouther rotary cutter question
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 25 Post by Jim on Timberridge

It's very handy for a cheap price -- $60-70
jim

boom pole
Operating and Attachments
Replies 10 Post by Jim on Timberridge

Check into flail mowers, which will give a finish cut along with the ability to chop thru heavy growth and small saplings. They are more expensive though.
jim

finish or brush
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 10 Post by Jim on Timberridge

Murf: I was reading your comment as you giving your "2cents worth", which I assumed was Can, and which is worth 1.4 cents USD.
But its nice to know that you would convert your money to US before offering it up...
Eh?

jim
(Don't like gravy on my FF)

Core Aerator or Pull Behind Drum Spike Aerator
Garden and Landscape
Replies 8 Post by Jim on Timberridge

I have a JD4700 with plastic hood, fenders, which I think all the 4000's had. Everything is holding up, but i'll comment via pos and neg:
Pos:
1. No rust. my JD1070 was rusting at fender seams, etc even though it saw no salt.
2. Quieter than steel.
3. Holds paint. My JD755 and others had the paint lift off the bare metal. JD didn't believe in primers apparently.
Neg:
1. Poor fit. The 4700 hood, nose, side panels have problems with aligning to each other. The hood doesn't fit over the rubber air inlet tube.
2. Rear fender wiggle. When using the hand grips on the fenders, they bend and sag -- I prefer a solid feel. The fenders are fastened with a couple of bolts and fender washers -- needs additional strength. I like the NH boomers that have their grips attached to the ROPS.
3. Harder to repair.
4. Cheap feel. The cover to the fuse box (under the steering wheel) fits poorly and is poorly constructed.
For years I hated Chysler products because of poor fit, cheap materials on their bodywork and interiors. Apparently their engineers were handsomely rewarded every time they substituted 2 screws to hold something that needed 3.
I see that same trend in some JD products.
jim

When did JD start using composite body panels
John Deere Tractors
Replies 11 Post by Jim on Timberridge

kwoetzel:<br>
Re brittle vs green wood -- I first heard this from the Vermeer salesman, and he was right. Green wood is easier because the chipper knives carve/cut the wood, whereas brittle wood tends to shatter. If the old stuff includes species like hickory, oak, locust, then the chipping is significantly affected (slower, the branches break up in the chute, etc). Some types end up as dusty debris rather than chips, which is a problem if you're looking to recoup the chips for landscaping.<br>
However, if you're using a smaller shredder/chipper that uses flail hammers, the condition of the wood probably isn't as much a factor (of course you won't be feeding as much big stuff into it either).<br>
jim

PTO woodchippers again
Operating and Attachments
Replies 43 Post by Jim on Timberridge

Super A's are selling at auctions here in Western Wis for $2000 to 3500, depending on condition and completeness. I passed on a beauty that had straight metal and all components (lights, caps, crank, battery box and cover, etc) went for $3000 in March 03.
Value depends on the mower (Woods?), the general condition of the tractor, etc. Forget the tires and the paint, unless they are signs that the tractor has seen serious wear/tear.
I have one that has heavy duty front axle, deluxe seat, cultivators, front snow plow, good metal, and I wouldn't sell it for $5000.
jim

Super A Farmall Value
Antique Tractors
Replies 6 Post by Jim on Timberridge

I have an echo and a stihl. The echo is older, and was a model called Aggressor2400, featuring a Sawzall type head/blade. It has a fixed length shaft, and worked really well. I liked the way the engine ran. Unfortunately, I wrecked the the cutting head by tackling limbs that were too big, jammed the power head, and caused it to strip the internal guides. Echo replaced this model with one that was the same engine, shaft, but with a 10" chain saw head.
I'm planning to buy the head and get the unit back in service.
I also use the Stihl, which has a telescoping shaft and 12" chain saw head. Yes it's heavy, but does everything I ask it to. Maybe a little underpowered.
The Stihl is longer than the Echo, maybe 15' fully extended, and is a handful to manuvuer in the woods. It has a shoulder strap to carry some of the weight.
Two final comments.
This winter I finished a cut on a large branch that was as high as I could stretch. The branch caught the sawhead and pulled it down as it fell. I couldn't stop the momentum of the extended saw, and it hit the ground hard. Snapped the sawhead's body (cast metal?) right in half. I thought I was out a few hundred bucks for a replacement. But I tried using some ColdWeld with some fiberglass cloth wrapped around the break. It's holding fine.
Second, no matter how long the saw, i always find branches to cut on my oak tree farm that are beyond my reach. Have stood on the back of my ATV, in my CUT bucket, on a ladder, whatever to get to that branch. It's some natural law that makes one do these things.
jim

Pole saws
Garden and Landscape
Replies 63 Post by Jim on Timberridge

I've had hooks welded on buckets for 4 different CUT's. All have been attached on the bucket upper lip in front of the arm attachment. All buckets were standard, not the HD, from JD. Lifted/pulled/leveraged a lot of loads and never had any affect on the bucket. In fact, some jobs were so overmatched for the tractors that I was concerned the FEL was going to be pulled off the mounting posts, but the hooks and their mounts never suffered any damage.
Also, my suggestion is to use 5/16" clevis hooks. This size will grab 1/4" - 3/8" chain. You don't need larger chain with a CUT. Use a grinder to flatten the back side of the hook and the loop for good weld sites. Mighty handy.
jim

Hooks on bucket
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 21 Post by Jim on Timberridge

I was in a similar situation in 96. Had 405 trees cut down, mostly red oak. Wanted to indulge myself with a 3ph chipper; justification was ecological, plus I had lots of use for the chips. So I bought a Verneer unit with 6" capacity and hydraulic feed for $7000.
It was a disaster. I ended up using the following two techniques to clear the tops:
1. Burned everything that could be moved to a clearing
2. Cut up everything else with chain saws to approx 4' lengths and so nothing stood up beyond 4' high.
Because my land is hillsides, most of the tops got chopped up - too hard to bring the tops to a site for burning. I agree with an earlier comment - it's hard to even see where the tree debris once was after cutting up (took 2-4 years).
Using a chipper for this task was so wrong, I'll try to list some reasons:
1. Absolutely have to have a big enough capacity. Mine had 6x6" throat, hydraulic feed, heavy duty flywheel and blades, etc. The chipper weighed 2000+". My JD1070 struggled with it, especially when I had to move off level ground. (Do you move the tractor all the time or bring the treetops to the tractor -- see below for the answer).
2. And guess what -- it wasn't big enough ! Most demonstrations of a chipper in action use saplings that are nicely straight and conveniently missing big side branches. Tree tops tend to have many crotches that are wide angled -- they will not easily feed into a 6x6" opening. An oak or hickory will fight you and beat you up.
You end up having to saw everything down to suitably small pcs. And now for the hard work: Unless you want to move the tractor/chipper frequently (can you get it close enough?), you have to drag everything thru the woods over to the chipper. I am telling you, these steps are incredibly tiresome and slow.
I have used a bigger Vermeer with a 9"x9" throat; it is absolutely the minimum size for the type of work you're facing. Even bigger types with drum cutters would be preferrable.
3. Best to chip up the wood when it's green - it will cut better. Old/seasoned wood will shatter and fight back in the hydraulics. So your window of getting everything chipped up is short. (And if your project extends over a year, plan on fighting blackberry and other nasty brush that fills in the cutover).
I guarantee that unless you are a card-carrying member of Greenpeace/Sierra Club/PETA, you will end up burning everything you possibly can. It is the most efficient and expeditious method.
jim

3 point chipper will it work
Operating and Attachments
Replies 8 Post by Jim on Timberridge

kubotaguy:
I tried using these cable chokers on smaller logs and trees. Didn't like the results. The cable gets pulled into a tight circle around the trunk, and tends to retain the shape. Then it becomes nasty to handle and work with, with all those kinks and curls in memory. Yeah, they can be threaded under logs and tighten up easier at first, but get harder to work with after they get older.
And if you've worked with steel cable, you know how vicious a broken strand can be to the hands if you're not careful handling it.
jim

Log Skidding Cat Chokers
Operating and Attachments
Replies 35 Post by Jim on Timberridge

I reclaimed 6 acre field from big box elders, black locust, and other "nuisance" trees. Used a dozer at $75/hr, since many of the trees were >24" diameter. Also had the operator fill in ravines and other washout/erosion.
No other feasible way to do it. One day's work is enough to keep a CUT owner busy for a couple of years in clean-up and "finish" tasks on his tractor.
One BIG mistake I made is to bury the stumps, either by pushing them into the ravines or digging a hole for them. Or to just cut off the tree and adjust the ground level to make it disappear. The problem shows up 5-7-8 years later in the ground sinking over the stumps or other buried wood, which rots. Now I spend my springs and falls bringing in dirt fill to level the ground again, then planting new grass. It's a pain. I'm always fighting erosion because of the slope of the ground and the natural runoff, so if the water finds low channels it will eventually cause new erosion (mole runs don't help either).
Best advise I can give is to burn everything you remove from the ground.
jim

Small Stump Suggestions
Tractor Projects
Replies 40 Post by Jim on Timberridge

Tom:
what disposal problem would calcium chloride solution be?
jim

Tractor size
Just For Fun Off Topic
Replies 12 Post by Jim on Timberridge

Any tire type (R1, R4, R3) will tear up grass and turf if you drive the tractor aggressively. A tractor wants to go straight, whether its 2 or 4 wheel drive. And that's what drives the tread sideways into the ground during turns. The condition of the ground is also a factor(wet/dry) and the season (ground thawing in the spring will be spongy much deeper than later in the summer).
I've run R1's on several CUT's on grassy fields, around lots of trees, and up/down slopes -- they can be used quite well without doing significant damage, IF, you avoid extreme turf conditions that make it easy to tear up.
I have a JDX595 with gator tires, and in 4wd it will strip off a lot of sod during turns if I am rambuncticous with my driving.
My rule of thumb is to get the tires that match your worst case requirements for traction, and then adjust your usage and driving for lesser conditions.
jim

tearing turf up
New Holland Tractors
Replies 5 Post by Jim on Timberridge